Poche settimane fa l’alta moda ha perso uno dei suoi più celebri esponenti, lo stilista francese Adieu Hubert de Givenchy.
Givenchy ha fondato la sua maison nel 1952, a 25 anni, ed è diventato famoso per aver vestito clienti come Jacqueline Kennedy, l’imperatrice Farah Pahlavi, Marella Agnelli, la Principessa Grace Kelly, la duchessa di Windsor e le attrici Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Lauren Bacall, Jeanne Moreau e Ingrid Bergman.
Molti di questi personaggi hanno calcato il “palcoscenico” caprese, creando inevitabilmente tendenza con i loro abiti e lasciando, così, un segno indelebile nella moda caprese degli anni ’50 e ’60. Per questo anche l’isola perde un pezzo delle origini del successo di Capri (Salotto del Mondo) nel mondo.
Come non pensare alle indimenticate donne da Jaqueline a Grace fino a Ingrid, divenute icone della moda da seguire per tutte le donne di quegli anni, con straordinario “ritorno” anche in epoca più recente: i vestiti che “seguono” il corpo (come diceva Givenchy), del tipo talleur o gonne strette e ancora t-shirt attillate, sono tornate, in tinta unita o spezzata o con le righe larghe, meglio se bianco e nero. Abiti che le donne sono tornate ad apprezzare da un paio d’anni a questa parte, o forse non hanno mai smesso di amare ammirandoli nelle foto e nelle pellicole d’epoca.
Certamente c’è un abito che resterà per sempre nella memoria: il famoso tubino indossato da Audrey Hepburn in Colazione da Tiffany (nella foto). Quell’abito, che ha consacrato lo stilista per sempre, oggi è anche il suo testamento: il suo nome resterà legato negli anni a quella creazione. E quella creazione non poteva non vedere la luce anche sotto il sole di Capri.
Per Givenchy l’incontro del destino è stato, però, con l’interprete di Vacanze romane: si ritrova a disegnarle non solo i costumi di scena, ma anche il guardaroba personale. Ed è proprio in quel decennio, tra gli anni ’50 e gli anni ’60, che lo stilista realizza le creazioni più iconiche: l’abito a sacco del 1953, il mantello a collo avvolgente del 1958, l’abito a palloncino e l’abito a bustino dell’anno successivo. Foto d’epoca mostrano le stradine dell’isola con donne che hanno seguito la lunga scia lasciata dall’elegante stilista gentiluomo, una moda che nel Salotto del Mondo si è “moltiplicata” all’ennesima potenza rimandando questa immagine oltreoceano e ritorno.
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