De Givenchy, l’uomo che lasciò il segno nella moda della “dolce vita” Caprese

Poche settimane fa l’alta moda ha perso uno dei suoi più celebri esponenti, lo stilista francese Adieu Hubert de Givenchy.
Givenchy ha fondato la sua maison nel 1952, a 25 anni, ed è diventato famoso per aver vestito clienti come Jacqueline Kennedy, l’imperatrice Farah Pahlavi, Marella Agnelli, la Principessa Grace Kelly, la duchessa di Windsor e le attrici Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Lauren Bacall, Jeanne Moreau e Ingrid Bergman.

Molti di questi personaggi hanno calcato il “palcoscenico” caprese, creando inevitabilmente tendenza con i loro abiti e lasciando, così, un segno indelebile nella moda caprese degli anni ’50 e ’60. Per questo anche l’isola perde un pezzo delle origini del successo di Capri (Salotto del Mondo) nel mondo.
Come non pensare alle indimenticate donne da Jaqueline a Grace fino a Ingrid, divenute icone della moda da seguire per tutte le donne di quegli anni, con straordinario “ritorno” anche in epoca più recente: i vestiti che “seguono” il corpo (come diceva Givenchy), del tipo talleur o gonne strette e ancora t-shirt attillate, sono tornate, in tinta unita o spezzata o con le righe larghe, meglio se bianco e nero. Abiti che le donne sono tornate ad apprezzare da un paio d’anni a questa parte, o forse non hanno mai smesso di amare ammirandoli nelle foto e nelle pellicole d’epoca.

Certamente c’è un abito che resterà per sempre nella memoria: il famoso tubino indossato da Audrey Hepburn in Colazione da Tiffany (nella foto). Quell’abito, che ha consacrato lo stilista per sempre, oggi è anche il suo testamento: il suo nome resterà legato negli anni a quella creazione. E quella creazione non poteva non vedere la luce anche sotto il sole di Capri.

Per Givenchy l’incontro del destino è stato, però, con l’interprete di Vacanze romane: si ritrova a disegnarle non solo i costumi di scena, ma anche il guardaroba personale. Ed è proprio in quel decennio, tra gli anni ’50 e gli anni ’60, che lo stilista realizza le creazioni più iconiche: l’abito a sacco del 1953, il mantello a collo avvolgente del 1958, l’abito a palloncino e l’abito a bustino dell’anno successivo. Foto d’epoca mostrano le stradine dell’isola con donne che hanno seguito la lunga scia lasciata dall’elegante stilista gentiluomo, una moda che nel Salotto del Mondo si è “moltiplicata” all’ennesima potenza rimandando questa immagine oltreoceano e ritorno.

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