Il Salotto del Mondo
“Un piccolo largo, che comincia dalla cattedrale e termina alla casa del doganiere, è il mercato di Capri, dove si spacciano fave ed alcuni frutti, qualche volta i maccheroni, ma la carne quasi mai. Se per disgrazia precipita una vacca da uno scoglio, e resta morta, si pubblica con la trombetta per tutta l’isola che si venderà della carne”. Così alla fine del 1700 lo storico austriaco Norbert Hadrawa descrisse la piazzetta di Capri. Questo slargo quadrangolare anticamente, per lungo tempo, sede del mercato locale dove si vendevano prodotti ortofrutticoli e pesce.
La piazza cambiò totalmente volto nell’Ottocento, quando venne costruita la prima strada carrozzabile nell’isola e venne aperta la prima farmacia pubblica (“la Strada Nuova”, oggi via Roma in onore della neo-capitale d’Italia).
Nel 1877-78, inoltre, viene ultimata la strada carrozzabile per Marina Grande e viene realizzata una pensilina alberata per la sosta delle carrozze.
Alle soglie del XX secolo la piazza diventò a tutti gli effetti il cuore della Capri turistica.
Nel 1900 la piazza, fino ad allora anonima, venne intitolata in onore a Umberto I d’Italia, il re appena scomparso, diventando quindi ufficialmente “Piazza Umberto I”. Nel 1907, invece, fu inaugurata la funicolare di Capri, l’impianto a fune che unì la piazza al borgo di Marina Grande.
La piazza assunse un carattere più mondano solo quando il caprese Raffaele Vuotto, fra il 1934 e il 1938, aprì il suo bar, il “Gran Caffè Vuotto”.
Dopo l’apertura di quest’ultimo altri capresi lo seguirono aprendo le proprie attività e da quel momento la Piazzetta è diventata il cuore della vita sociale dell’isola.
Ma tale spazio aveva già un suo futuro scritto, un destino magico che avrebbe proiettato l’intera isola fuori dal perimetro voluto dal mare, uno spazio che avrebbe preso il nome, quindi, di “Salotto del mondo”. In quello slargo, infatti, su quella inconfondibile pavimentazione fatta di pietra lavica, si sarebbero fermati praticamente tutti: dai turisti più dispersi fino ai personaggi di ogni genere e di ogni rango. Nessuno sarebbe soltanto transitato senza sostare per rifocillarsi, per ascoltare il battito del cuore pulsante dell’isola o solamente per ammirare la parte che guarda a Nord, dal Solaro al Golfo di Napoli con Ischia, Procida e Napoli poste in Tribuna d’Onore per guardare Capri.
La piazza, per questo, non è diventato soltanto un luogo di incontro come ogni altra tipica piazza: essa è la vita dell’isola, ne è l’identità stessa che mostra lo stato d’animo di un intero paese: feste, funerali, frenetismo del lavoro o passeggio vacanziero, mondanità o sonno, in quello spazio c’è il battito di un cuore che rimanda a tutto il resto.
E quello stile di vita che noi identifichiamo con “Fashion Capri”, quell’essenza fatta di persone e tradizioni, di bellezza e di eleganza, conquista proprio qui il suo “marchio d’origine”: dalla Piazzetta, infatti, si ergono come in vetrina mille simboli forti che richiamano un’identità, quel “fashion” che diventa internazionale, “del mondo”, grazie a chi vi sosta e a chi la proietta in mille modi fuori dall’isola (dalle immagini antiche di un tempo fino ai selfie ed ai filmati di oggi). Basta fermarsi qualche ora, nei vari momenti della giornata e delle stagioni, per avere tutta la conoscenza di uno stile unico. “Salotto del mondo” perché proiettato ovunque, “salotto del mondo” perché chiunque da ovunque passa da qui, assaporando, imitando o essendo parte stessa di questo piccolo universo simbolico.
“Salotto del mondo” che battezza questo sito il quale, con sobrietà, leggerezza ed eleganza, si propone di raccontare l’isola in tutti i suoi aspetti più rappresentativi che racchiudono il fascino di Capri già nel suo stesso nome.
(Foto: Piazzetta di Capri, Olio su tela, 2013 – Claudio Marineo pittore)
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